Meeting Nepal's Maoists
By Charles Haviland
BBC News, Annapurna
Comrade Akash: "I am a political person"
"Hi, I'm a Maoist," said Comrade Akash as he entered the lodge with Comrade Himal.
It was the only English they uttered during our chat in a picturesque village in the southern Annapurna mountains of Nepal.
It was barely a day's walk from the road near the start of a 10-day trek to Annapurna Base Camp.
Hours before, in another village, our guide had pointed out Comrade Akash sauntering past, a woven Nepali bag slung over his shoulder. Now we'd caught up with him.
In a red T-shirt and trainers, Akash - his party name - had a huge grin, a scar on his forehead and a big mop of hair. He was 19 and had been in the Communist Party of Nepal (Maoist) for three years.
"I joined because a corrupt 5% of the people rule over the 95%, who have no access to development."
No one pressed me to join - I wanted to serve my country
Comrade Himal
The "old government", he said, referring to the authorities outside Maoist-controlled areas, did nothing for education, transport or health.
In schooling, they were stuck in the 16th century, he said. "We want modern, 21st-century scientific methods."
'Social work'
Akash admitted he had no boyhood deprivations. He considered non-violent parties, but said their leaders built themselves big houses and opened international bank accounts.
"I researched a bit about the Maoists and found they get no salary or pension. Maoists can sacrifice their lives for poor people. They're the only party which regularly does social work."
It's a 10-day trek to Annapurna Base Camp
The Maoists routinely force villagers, hoteliers and tourists to give them money. I asked what this funded.
"Money goes to the Central Committee and is divided up. The party has given 50,000 rupees to a secondary school in [neighbouring] Parbat district. It gave 21,000 for the water supply in one village. Last year it gave five million rupees for development."
It was not possible to verify such claims.
"Much of the rest goes to medicine, often for our wounded military comrades," Akash added.
He did not mention the funding or sources of Maoist weapons.
Recently, an ambulance was attacked by Maoists because it dared move despite their general shutdown.
Maoist bombs targeting markets have killed two people. During a February blockade they killed a driver.
They have reportedly bombed school exam centres, intercepted UN food aid and allowed sick people to die by preventing them reaching hospital. They have also ordered the imminent closure of all private schools.
How did all this square with Akash's social conscience?
We do as the Central Committee instructs, collecting donations and talking to people about politics
Comrade Akash
"I want to destroy the structure of [King] Gyanendra's government and achieve a people's government. Strikes and blockades do not affect ordinary people," he insisted.
"If we close schools, people will blame the authorities."
Akash asked for my frank opinion of the Maoists.
I said they should stop killing people and gave examples of some local people recently murdered.
"They were helping the army who had just killed our own comrades," he retorted as the grin vanished.
'I wanted to serve'
Comrade Himal, aged 22, was very different. He looked unhappy and said he had joined the party a month ago, after working as a labourer in Malaysia.
"No one pressed me to join - I wanted to serve my country," he said. "I'd be happy to give my life for Nepal."
Maoist graffiti shows who is in charge in the area
Apparently his parents, brothers and sister supported his decision to join. Akash said he spoke to his own family about twice a month.
I asked Akash if he was a fighting Maoist.
"We are the property of the Maoist party machine," he said, as if reciting something.
"The Central Committee decides which machine part fits where. I am a political person."
What was their daily routine?
"We do as the Central Committee instructs, collecting donations and talking to people about politics," he replied. "Ninety-five percent of the people support us. The rest are intimidated by the army."
They also demand free food at lodges.
Extortion
The unpaid job is perhaps better than nothing, even exciting, when you have no hope of employment.
Akash said he wanted to make Nepal more welcoming for tourists. Perhaps because of blockades, tourist figures have fallen by 32% so far this year.
Security forces no longer venture into this territory
"When we control the government we'll promote Nepal all over the world," he said.
But both tourists and hoteliers hate having money extorted by the rebels.
Days later, at the base camp under deep snow, I learned that the Maoists come that high quite regularly.
Former army checkposts are now defunct; the security forces no longer venture into this territory.
Before leaving Akash and Himal, I asked for a photograph.
Akash, the "political" cadre, extracted from his harmless-looking woven bag a revolver and socket-bombs and flourished them proudly.
In a country where police and soldiers armed to the teeth are part of the landscape, this 19-year-old clearly enjoyed having his own weapons.
I could only guess at the private feelings of the long-suffering villagers.
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