From Phalano.com

04.01.08

The life of the Nepalese in Qatar

Posted in Travel & Places, विदेश (Foreign) at 8:51 am by www.PHALANO.com

By Tristan Bruslé

With 266,000 people, and 100,000 more to come in 2008, the Nepalese in Qatar are about to become the first foreign community in this tiny Gulf country. They are also the first concentration of Nepalese outside Nepal and India. As soon as one steps off the plane from Kathmandu at Doha airport, one is struck by a certain kind of familiarity with the airport staff. The visitor to Qatar wonders at the number of young men speaking khas kura or wearing “Nepal” branded caps. In the streets of Doha, in shops, in shopping malls, in offices, in restaurants, on building sites, the Nepalese toil to earn their living and help their family at home.

Workers arrive in Doha wearing manpower agency caps.

Thanks to it boasting the second gas reserve in the world, Qatar is a fast growing economy which needs low skilled workers. All unqualified jobs are done by foreigners, and especially by the Nepalese, who, nowadays, are the most sought after compared to Indians or other nationalities. The Nepalese’s reputation is excellent: they are said to be hardworking, honest, cheap and not prone to complaining. Unfortunately, this means that the Nepalese are an easy target for con men, be the Dalals from Nepal or employers in Qatar.

Photo: After breaking both legs at work this young boy has been staying in his room for two months, living thanks to the help of his friends.

It is non uncommon to meet desperate workers who have not been paid for months or who have been abandoned by their company after being injured at work. It also means that their basic salary is lower than that of other nationalities. However, the more educated Nepalese complain that the Nepalese image is too much associated with that of an unskilled worker. Nonetheless, the number of qualified Nepalese rises every year: there are about 100 executives from Nepal in Qatar.

Unskilled workers are usually put up in labour camps that is buildings rented by their company. The biggest concentration of labour camps is the Industrial Area, near Doha. Hundreds of thousands of men live there in camps where living conditions largely depend on the care the company takes of its workers. Some camps are well maintained, and even provide table tennis and snooker facilities. But the majority of them are overcrowded (up to 16 men to a room with three tiered bunk-beds), sometimes dirty and not suitable for men spending years abroad.

Cleaners in the up-market Al Khor Community.

Life in a camp is monotonous. Everyday except for Fridays, workers are taken to their work site by company buses. For lunch, tiffin boxes filled with Dal Bhat are provided. At the end of the afternoon, when the workers come back to their camp, some of them begin their second job, called part time, which consists in being a servant in private houses. At night, after another plate of Dal Bhat, it is time to play cards or watch the latest Nepalese movie. These days Muglan is the favourite one. Friday is the only day when workers have time off. Some wash their clothes and rest all day. Others go to Doha. The favourite destination is Nepali Chowk, a temporary place created by the Nepalese in the centre of Doha. Here, thousands of men gather, meet their relatives or villagers, have tea and buy the latest Nepalese movie or songs. Homesick men can also buy Nepalese Paan, Khukhuri cigarettes and “Top of the world” T-shirts. The atmosphere is like that of Ason Tole during the rush hour, be it for the total lack of women and temples… From the Nepali Chowk, many workers head for one of the six Nepalese restaurants where Momo, Dal Bhat and Sukuti are to be found. A sense of familiarity and of being together is important for those who struggle in a foreign land, away from home and family.

Runnig an internet café and enabling workers to call home on low rates. Selling Kantipur as a part time job.

Waiters in a Chicha (Qatari type hooka) bar. Bhim and friends at the Tourist Hotel.

At Mehaman with Kandel brothers. To eat the best Momo in town go to Sagarmatha restaurant.

Baje, the most ancient Nepali restaurant owner, will always serve you a typical Dal Bhat. Samudrako cheuma.

Cleaning a kinder garden (photo Ramesh Regmi)

Dangerous jobs are for Nepalis.

Taking a rest on a construction site.

Back from work in the company bus.

Nepali musical shooting in Al Khor.

Sending money home is like a Kushiko Khabar (happy news).

National emblems at the Nepali restaurant in Al Khor.

Inside the Nepali Bhansa Ghar Restaurant.

Nepali feature films and Nepali pan are available at the Nepali Chowk.

Nepali chowk is the place to be on Fridays.

Latest news and music from Nepal are found at Machapuchhre music store.

Waiting for the bus to come. Going to part time job requires a bicycle.

Between home and abroad : Qatar royalties, Shiva and Nepal map. A camp under the February sun.

“I am from Kaski and this is my bed”. Living with stars.

These newly arrived young workers have not yet decorated their room. “Look, I’ve got a brand new mobile !”

Laughing with friends in a camp. “Our country name is written on our room door”

Dal bhat taken in the camp room.

Dal bhat taken in the camp mess. Proud to be a Nepali in Al Fardan area, Central Doha.

Al Khor famous “Sandhya group” welcoming the author.

Taxis drivers take a break to read Kantipur.

Nepali posters are stronger than law.

Doha, Qatar.

Doha, Qatar.

All the pictures were taken in Doha, Al Khor and around, in October 2006 and February 2008, by the author Tristan Bruslé, Geographer, French National Research Center (CNRS)
tristan.brusle@free.fr ; http://tristan.brusle.free.fr

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