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http://www.parakhi.com/blogs/2011/07/10/towering-over-the-city/
Nepal doesn’t have an Eifel Tower to boast of, but I suppose as a historical landmark in Kathmandu the Dharahara will suffice. There is no point in me writing about dates and the significance of the structure – that’s what the pamphlet handed to foreigners at the door is for, and if that doesn’t do, there’s always Google. This post is more about what these informative texts won’t tell you – the experience of being Nepali and deciding to huff and puff your way to the top (of a tower, not to the top of the political ladder with the help of corruption!).
The Rs 50 ticket for us locals is affordable, but with the low price, the not so friendly people at the ticket booth also take over all your possessions (save for your wallet and camera) while you play tourist. When asked why I had to hand over my bag but foreigners were allowed to keep theirs, I was told that it was a sewa for our fellow brothers and sisters. The “service” of course, being a well-played positive twist on the fact that Nepalis continue to discriminate, against ourselves. “If it’s really a service, you should give us the option to leave our belongings at the entrance or to take it with us,” was my practical reply. But of course, the guard didn’t hear me.
Wallet tucked under my arm and camera slung over my shoulder, I entered the premise. Nearing the stairs that led to the tower, I skimmed the signs that spoke against chewing gum, paan, writing on the walls, being disruptive to others, and maintaining disciple at a national heritage site. All of which sounded reasonable, until at the very bottom (in unnecessary inverted commas) I saw the, ‘Only for Nepalies.’
Yes, it was evens spelled wrong. Not ‘Nepali’ or ‘Nepalese’ but Nepalies, so I’m not exactly sure which people group they’re referring to but I’m going to assume is the same bone heads who defied the list. Walking into the tower, it didn’t take long to notice the red splatters on the walls. I assume some gung-ho patriotic Nepali was happily chewing on beetle nuts and decided the boring white walls needing spiffing up.
Pee-chaak-ka. And there, lo and behold, for every other person who goes up and down the stairs is the discolored and distasteful volunteer cosmetic make over of some smart ass who couldn’t make it to the top of the tower without chewing tobacco. Considering the amount of splotchy touch-ups on the entire length of the stairs, it appears there were many like-minded individuals who thought the stairwell would be better off with orally induced patterns rather than a few reprints of Van Gogh or Picasso.
Accompanying the sporadic red, the landmark tower’s décor of trash could also probably be credited to the public. A plastic bottle crushed and strategically placed between grills, scraps of paper dotting the stairs, and even a discarded box of cigarettes to welcome you to the balcony overlooking the city. The city still looks dirty from above, but at least the breeze is nice, the air is cleaner, and Tudikhel looks green and almost inviting. Walking around, you can see Swyombu, the airport and even portions of Singha Durbar. After the never ending winding staircase, the view may even be worth it. Thanks to the wires and fencing obstruction the view, the pictures don’t come out too good though.
I am happy to report, however, that though paan-filled mouths may have snuck in, pens and other writing utensils seem to have remained off walls. I don’t recall seeing any “Mannu Loves Raju” scrawled on the walls, nor were there over generous hearts drawn over initials and my eyes were saved the sorry sight of poorly spelled foul words that speak of youthful rebellion. Maybe one day that ‘Only for Nepalies’ sign can be taken down and we can take our bags up with us if only to breath above the concrete jungle that continues to grow outward and upward.
Saani has no real goals and aspirations but she sees opportunity in everything and goes with the flow. This is probably because she loves exploring and discovering. She writes for fun but for the same reason she also cooks, reads, and spends a lot of time on random websites that offer a chance to learn all sorts of tid-bits on life!
http://www.parakhi.com/blogs/2011/07/10/towering-over-the-city/
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